As the temperatures begin to dip and a chill begins to settle in the northern hemisphere, the arrival of snow across the Alps this month is a sure sign that a new ski season is on its way. If you are a ski or snowboarding enthusiast and looking for inspiration, then Zermatt in the Swiss Alps should definitely be a strong contender. The crowing jewel of a country that is renowned for its ski resorts and breath-taking beauty, Zermatt for many is the ultimate ski experience. A quaint little village with cobbled streets, a rambling church, an old cemetery and dotted with shops and restaurants in the form of alpine huts, it is old school glamour oozing with charm.
With three distinct and extensive ski areas, Sunnegga, Gornergrat and Klein Matterhorn and the highest ski lift point in the Alps, it has plenty to challenge skiers/snowboarders of all abilities. As a bonus Zermatt also has fantastic links and accessibility to two ski zones beyond the Italian border. The legendary Swiss efficiency, heart-stopping beauty, exquisite food and wine, vibrant apre-ski and a great choice of hotels and chalets makes it a perfect choice for a complete ski experience. By Varsha Sehgal
STAY
Proximity is always key when deciding on where to stay at a ski resort because hauling equipment at the start and end of each day is nobody’s idea of fun. In Zermatt, two places tick all the right boxes.
Mont Cervin Palace Zermatt: This is classic luxury with all the finery of the bygone eras. Nestled in a corner in the village, only a stone throw away from the train station which runs connections to Gornergrat every ten minutes, Mont Cervin is renowned for its hospitality and eye for detail. With heated boot lockers, spa, gym, kids club, newly refurbished rooms and restaurants serving regional and international specialties there is nothing that has been left to chance where the comfort of their guests is concerned.
Cervo: Located vertically above the Sunnegga lift is this very hip and happening Chalet Hotel. Definitely the place to be if hobnobbing with jetsetters is your thing and being part of the very best apre-ski is perfect unwinding at the end of a long and arduous ski day. It has all the comforts of a top notch hotel with the added advantage of being able to book rooms or individual chalets depending on what you prefer for your stay. The decor is alpine minimalism with a feel of a hunting lodge.
EATING ON THE MOUNTAIN
Nothing fuels the appetite more than going up and down endless run in the crisp alpine air at high altitude. The fact that Zermatt boasts three of the top ten mountain restaurants in the world makes for another reason to indulge in the tempting food on offer on the slopes.
Chez Vrony: Recommended by the Michelin, Chez Vrony is a hot spot on the Rothorn run. The warm and friendly welcome from the owner is an added bonus to the breathtaking location and superb wine and food. A bottle of Dezaley goes down beautifully with the homemade cheeses, meats and angel hair pasta with truffle. Lunching under blue skies surrounded by mountains as old as time is tranquility sublime.
Chalet Etoile: Over the border in Italy, is this restaurant that is rumored by some to be perhaps one of the best Italian eateries in the world. The fact that to get here guarantees a fabulously long and uninterrupted ski, an opportunity to make a pit stop at Testea Grigia on the Swiss-Italian border for a quick and warming Bombardino (Italian version of the eggnog) before finally indulging in a feast of fresh pasta and wine make Chalet Etoile unmissable.
Zum See: Tucked away in a little hamlet down the Furi-Riffelberg run await the finest noodle and fish delights. Along with the strudel with vanilla sauce the lunch washes down beautifully with the “grolla”, coffee mixed with grappa, genepy and a well-guarded secret ingredient.
Findlerhof: If reliving the magic of Heidi is part of the plan then Findlerhof is a must. Pick a sunny day and enjoy the seafood and champagne as the majestic Matterhorn that inspired Toblerone, looms jagged behind you. The bleating mountain goats and weather worn huts give it a touch of authenticity that one would expect from a pastoral village.
EATING OFF THE MOUNTAIN
Grampis: Just behind the Cuckoo Club is a pizzeria very popular with families not just because it has a casual and homey vibe but because the fresh pizzas here are probably one of the best you would have ever had! With a very long waiting list and loyal customers, this place is always buzzing and sometimes it can take two hours to get a table.
PARTY IN THE ALPS
Cervo: This is the place to be seen at the end of a ski day. The sun terrace with its warm fur blankets, giant cushions, live band and excellent choice of drinks attracts only the hippest of skiers.
Champagne Bar: You will find this bar on the slope down to Sunnegga just before the Cervo. Run by a lovely poncho wearing, Cuban lady named Taimi, its offering of chilled Champagne, a great vibe and fabulous views are good reasons for a pit stop before you hang your boots up for the night.
Cuckoo Club: In the heart of Zermatt village, this is somewhere to go after dark to enjoy the cocktails, cabaret shows and dance the night away.
SHOPPING
Bayard: Besides the Moncler and Bogner stores in the village, Bayard is also a great place for ski enthusiasts wanting a bit more. Along with the regular ski essentials, it offers custom made ski boots which may come at an investment price but will make a tremendous difference to the quality of your skiing.